Thursday, February 6, 2014
Thursday, January 2, 2014
I recently got a Carhartt cotton jacket and wanted to wax it.
16oz raw linseed oil (the "boiled" linseed oil isn't boiled, it just contains heavy metals like cobalt as a drying agent. Not what I want against my skin.)
Bowl or pot that you don't want to use again for food
Clothes iron you don't want to use for clothes again (a ski wax iron is great as it can go hotter)
Multimeter with thermocouple (optional)
Melt the beeswax in the bowl. Don't add the linseed oil yet.
Once the beeswax is melted, add the linseed oil.
Raise the temperature of the mix to about 150 C. I found this to be a good compromise between smoking and ease of application.
Coat the jacket with an even layer of wax/oil mix. Don't worry about it being pretty.
Once done, use the iron to melt the wax into the jacket. It should practically disappear into the fibers of the jacket.
Hang the jacket outside for a couple days for the linseed oil to dry.
That's it, you're done.
Things I found to not work:
Using a hairdryer to melt the wax into the jacket (too slow)
Using a heatgun (also too slow)
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
Gun control is sexist. Women have less strength to resist a physical attack, so gun control disproportionally disarms them.
Gun control is ageist. The aged have less strength to resist a physical attack, so gun control disproportionally disarms them.
Gun control is anti-gay. People of alternative sexualities are more likely to be attacked by a group of people, so gun control disproportionally disarms them.
Gun control is classist. The poor live in bad neighborhoods, are more likely to be victims of a crime, and cannot pay bodyguards, so gun control disproportionally disarms them.
A white privileged heterosexual male has nothing to fear from gun control - he is less likely to be a victim of a crime, can pay bodyguards, is strong enough to fight off individual attackers, and is not likely to be attacked because of his sexuality.
Monday, September 19, 2011
From UL's site:
"Safes are rated for their resistance to attack against specific tools
for a set period of time. There are a dozen different ratings,
everything from ATM machines, to gun safes to bank vaults. For example, a
safe that bears a Class TRTL-15x6 rating, which might be found in a
jewelry store, should resist a hand tool and torch attack for a minimum
of 15 minutes. A TRTL-30x6-rated safe, which would protect important
documents or store money, should withstand an attack for 30 minutes. The
ultimate safe rating — a TXTL60 — should withstand an hour's worth of
attack that includes the use of 8 ounces of nitroglycerin."
Nearly 100% of "safes" that you will find in a big box store or online (even the imposing-looking gun safes) meet merely the minimum requirements for "residential security container" or RSC which is that they will withstand *5 minutes* of attack by common hand tools. They are not "safes" at all and give virtually no protection due to their thin steel and unsophisticated locking mechanisms. (Hint: if the description of the thing lauds what "gauge" the steel is, it's not a safe. Real safes start at 1/4" armor plate steel and go up from there.)
Here's a video showing that most "safes" are crap:
Therefore, with this in mind, if you buy a "safe" and not a real safe, it will only secure valuables against the dumbest criminals under time pressure, and if the burglar has any time at all to work on it with even the most rudimentary tools, it will be cracked.
Therefore, the only real use of a "safe" is to protect against fire and the subsequent dousing by the fire department - and again, if it doesn't bear a UL listing for fire protection, it's not a safe, it's just a heavy box. Again from UL's site:
"In addition to burglary protection ratings, UL also rates safes for
their fire resistance protection. Class 350 safes protect paper
documents, Class 150 safes protect magnetic tape and photographic film,
while Class 125 safes protect floppy disks. In addition to the Class
Rating, safes obtain an hourly rating for fire resistance — anywhere
from 30 minutes to four hours."
Waterproof safes are hard to make due to the fact that the door has to be sealed; therefore, for waterproofness, simply enclose your documents/valuables in plastic bags in a regular RSC as the more waterproof containers tend to be top-opening chests instead of front opening.
This should be enough of an education for you to pick your own safe.
AMSEC is a premier maker of safes and they start at $1000 and up. Sentry makes good fire RSCs and they start at $50 or so.
Monday, July 18, 2011
Everyone that actually lives in the mountains zooms around in little rusty manual transmission Civics with snow tires, blowing past all the tourists in their SUVs.
While Outbacks are better, anything between about 2000-2004 has head gasket problems. The Legacy is the lower Outback and still does great in the snow. Anything 4WD or AWD is not cheap to maintain, if you must get one, get a car with a completely mechanical 4x4 or AWD system. I live down in the plains and drive up to ski, and we figured in my buddy's AWD wagon we were in conditions that actually required the AWD (not "was nice", required as in "we would otherwise die") perhaps 4% of the yearly mileage, and we got in 60 days each.
Consider a manual transmission FWD wagon with 4 good snow tires (Blizzaks, Hakkapelittas, Green Diamonds) on steel rims. (Why steel rims? Because in winter you're a lot more liable to slide into a curb and ding your alloy rims/affect your alignment. Because steel rims bend, they absorb some of the impact that would otherwise go into messing up your alignment).
In the snow, the order of on-road capability goes: AWD with chains > AWD with snow tires > 4x4 with chains > FWD with chains > 4x4 with snow tires > FWD with snow tires > AWD with all season tires > FWD with all season tires > 4x4 with all season tires.
On all season tires, 4x4s are the worst car to drive in winter because of their high centers of gravity, solid axles, and unsophisticated differentials. Offroad, a 4x4 will own anything but on a road at high speed they are unsafe.
Even an AWD on all-seasons will be all over the road compared to a FWD on good snow tires.
Monday, July 11, 2011
You can read the specs at Marin's site here. They don't list the weight but my LBS put my Large size on the scale for 25lb 11oz with the stock pedals.
There are a couple of things I love about it that other reviews don't talk about. The seatpost is really nice and allows you to fine-tune the tilt of the seat to a degree not normally found in this pricepoint of bike. The wheelbase is relatively long, giving good stability. All of the hardpoints that you'd find on a touring bike are there and in the right places, so you can mount full fenders plus front and rear racks with no problem. The fork, though not steel, resembles an MTB fork and gives a good strong mount point for the front disc brake plus it nicely dampens road vibration. I would not be surprised if MTB tires fit nicely. The stock tires have relatively low rolling resistance but have good siping on the sides for cornering in the wet. The seat tube and handlebars both have numbered lines so fine-tuning the bike's fit is easy, and they left you lots of head tube on the fork so you can chop it yourself. The frame is neat, combining a high BB height, low CG, and more cross-like handlebar position. They basically went right down the middle with the geometry between a dedicated road bike and a cross bike. Cyclocrossers will like the fact that the top tube has a crease running down its length on both sides, making it easy to pick up and shoulder over obstacles. The Tektro Lyra disc brakes are nice and will bring you to a screeching halt wet or dry.
The drivetrain is a little low in Shimano's lineup for my liking, but it's solid and any parts that I blow up will get replaced with nicer ones anyway.
I paid $720 at my LBS, and I think that's a damn good deal.
edit: I had a "clunk" going on with the rear disc brake when the brake was first applied (not a constant clicking, just a "thunk" as you engaged the brake). My LBS called Tektro directly and they suggested looking to see if the ball bearing that the disc actuator rides on had slipped, or if the return spring had popped out. It was the latter, the spring was out of it hole due to the bolt working a bit loose. They fixed that and it's been fine for 30 miles. I suggest locktiting the bolt that holds the spring in.
150 miles on the bike so far and no other complaints.
Saturday, July 9, 2011
"But I ran out of steam trying to find new ways to prepare swiss chard, kohlrabi, eggplant, and collard greens. "
The "swiss chard, kohlrabi, eggplant, and collard greens" that people whine about are the foods that actually *grow well* where they live, which is the whole intent of "eating local" in the first place. If you're not willing to eat the foods that actually grow well where you live, then admit that you really don't care about eating local in the first place and just want to be trendy.